Every home in Northeast Ohio fights the same three enemies: organic growth on the shaded sides, ground-in grime on the hard surfaces, and freeze-thaw damage on anything porous. Each service below exists to beat one of them, and each is matched to its surface: high pressure where the surface can take it, low-pressure soft washing where it cannot.
High-pressure cleaning for the surfaces built to take it: driveways, sidewalks, patios, brick and stone. This is the right tool for ground-in dirt on hard surfaces, and the wrong one for siding and roofs.
Low-pressure soft washing for vinyl, aluminum, painted wood and stucco. A cleaning solution kills the algae and mildew at the source, then rinses away gently, so the siding stays clean far longer than blasting it would.
The chemistry-first method behind our house and roof washing: kill the organic growth, rinse at low pressure, protect the surface. If it has a seam water can be driven behind, it gets soft washed, not pressure washed.
Those black streaks are algae feeding on the limestone in your shingles. Soft washing removes them without stripping a single granule, which is why we never put a pressure washer on a roof.
Cleared by hand and flushed, downspouts tested. In Northeast Ohio this is a fall deadline item: a gutter that goes into winter blocked comes out of it as an ice dam.
Interior and exterior glass, screens and sills. Usually booked alongside a house wash, when the difference is most dramatic.
Wood and composite each get their own approach: wood needs low pressure and the right cleaner to avoid furring, composite needs the film of growth broken without scarring the surface.
Pre-treatment first: degreaser on the oil, dedicated treatment on the rust, then high-pressure surface cleaning. Also the mandatory first visit of any sealing job, because sealer locks in whatever is underneath it.
The protection step for Northeast Ohio’s freeze-thaw winters: penetrating siloxane for poured concrete, solvent-based acrylic for stamped, slip-resistant matte for pool decks. Sealed slabs absorb less water and less road salt, which is what spalling and pitting are made of.
Clean, re-sand the joints with polymeric sand, then seal. The joints are what hold a paver surface together; replacing what washes out of them is the step most homeowners skip.
